tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65215008595736805872024-03-14T07:22:13.790+00:00Malcys Adventures in Computer LandA blog to help me remember how to fix problems on various computers. If anyone else reads this blog and finds it useful that will be a bonusMalcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.comBlogger14125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-12750653000434113202016-09-10T12:57:00.002+01:002016-09-10T13:01:18.594+01:00Ubiquiti WiFi Access point removal "key"The solution to this problem, like most problems, is simple as long as you know the answer.<br />
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Ubiquiti WiFi access points such as this UAP AC Lite are designed to be affixed to ceilings.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OJvyfsx7Y34/V9Pxr4BL8yI/AAAAAAAAAnA/41mre-k6I_AIe3fjdenyN73HhTBUgIMhgCLcB/s1600/_DSC3043.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OJvyfsx7Y34/V9Pxr4BL8yI/AAAAAAAAAnA/41mre-k6I_AIe3fjdenyN73HhTBUgIMhgCLcB/s320/_DSC3043.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The actual access point is attached to a base that is firstly affixed to the ceiling.<br />
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The access point is then fitted to the base and rotated so that the tang on the base (arrowed) goes over the rotational stop and locks in to the slot of the access point.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mi_D1glDv-A/V9Pxs_f8XAI/AAAAAAAAAnc/Jvy-b_6N-34WfHJq0kwxC_-RDx_FZTFNwCLcB/s1600/_DSC3053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mi_D1glDv-A/V9Pxs_f8XAI/AAAAAAAAAnc/Jvy-b_6N-34WfHJq0kwxC_-RDx_FZTFNwCLcB/s320/_DSC3053.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35_Ii2zY35g/V9Pxr4AwLyI/AAAAAAAAAm8/6ugeGB9EjMArrFlQZA4XGBwxdJvdJeyvgCLcB/s1600/_DSC3044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-35_Ii2zY35g/V9Pxr4AwLyI/AAAAAAAAAm8/6ugeGB9EjMArrFlQZA4XGBwxdJvdJeyvgCLcB/s320/_DSC3044.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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To remove the access point the tang of the base needs to be raised so the access point can be rotated and removed. This is easy when the unit is not fitted to the ceiling as you can lift it with your finger.<br />
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When it is fitted to the ceiling though you have to insert an object through the small access hole (arrowed) and lift the tang<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NO4ig-lWiW0/V9PxrxWjv0I/AAAAAAAAAm4/uWuHUx3YYLUPomQtt5KbI4KFakOf987oQCLcB/s1600/_DSC3045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NO4ig-lWiW0/V9PxrxWjv0I/AAAAAAAAAm4/uWuHUx3YYLUPomQtt5KbI4KFakOf987oQCLcB/s320/_DSC3045.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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No keys or tools are supplied with the access point for removal. Screwdrivers don't really fit into the access hole as they are too big and there is not much room available when the access point is fitted to the ceiling.<br />
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The ideal solution is a steel wire paper clip. The bigger the better as long as the wire diameter of the paper clip goes through the access point hole, This 50mm long paper clip seems the ideal size.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0eIjylP_x4Y/V9PxsD9K8GI/AAAAAAAAAnM/mA-8WKm6uBopq6MOZgO3OCgXo11PJfuNgCLcB/s1600/_DSC3046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0eIjylP_x4Y/V9PxsD9K8GI/AAAAAAAAAnM/mA-8WKm6uBopq6MOZgO3OCgXo11PJfuNgCLcB/s320/_DSC3046.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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With a pair of needle nose pliers, straighten out the outside bend as shown.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Eax5XqeKCRY/V9PxsASmwGI/AAAAAAAAAnE/4Qi3njghblgoWBh2G98WzpnYdOMlYePogCLcB/s1600/_DSC3047.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Eax5XqeKCRY/V9PxsASmwGI/AAAAAAAAAnE/4Qi3njghblgoWBh2G98WzpnYdOMlYePogCLcB/s320/_DSC3047.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then bend the now straight portion back around to 90°<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDLaezM6FPc/V9PxsQhnzVI/AAAAAAAAAnI/oCoq32ir_3EQtioq-wjr5uSfqgy6YH4CACLcB/s1600/_DSC3048.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDLaezM6FPc/V9PxsQhnzVI/AAAAAAAAAnI/oCoq32ir_3EQtioq-wjr5uSfqgy6YH4CACLcB/s320/_DSC3048.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now half way between the 90° bend and the end of the wire, bend the wire 45° to the left and then 5mm closer to the end of the wire put another 45° bend in this time to the right.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CDsB3Hrd1to/V9Pxs7a55WI/AAAAAAAAAng/YX827xSGD-4P3pcj_YHto22_TTGVMNoDgCLcB/s1600/_DSC3054.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CDsB3Hrd1to/V9Pxs7a55WI/AAAAAAAAAng/YX827xSGD-4P3pcj_YHto22_TTGVMNoDgCLcB/s320/_DSC3054.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The bent paper clip can now be inserted into the access hole of the access point.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wneGfEweEaU/V9PxsYkDoNI/AAAAAAAAAnY/9w5t_XpVg64XmYTex_ZEtzmqlvRKmXjMgCLcB/s1600/_DSC3050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wneGfEweEaU/V9PxsYkDoNI/AAAAAAAAAnY/9w5t_XpVg64XmYTex_ZEtzmqlvRKmXjMgCLcB/s320/_DSC3050.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now rotate the paper clip up the the left, the 45° bends in the wire lift the tang clear of the rotational stop.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uBsy4qpH-dE/V9Pxsh9OjCI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/Lm-7OPwGW900RGLuIyk0_9TsENNgx5fGACLcB/s1600/_DSC3051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uBsy4qpH-dE/V9Pxsh9OjCI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/Lm-7OPwGW900RGLuIyk0_9TsENNgx5fGACLcB/s320/_DSC3051.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The access point can now be rotated anti clockwise (looking from underneath) and removed from the base unit.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nKlAtNCuJN8/V9Pxsit1DBI/AAAAAAAAAnU/0EtcknnSbn4OstJegluZ78thNfXv1rAQACLcB/s1600/_DSC3052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nKlAtNCuJN8/V9Pxsit1DBI/AAAAAAAAAnU/0EtcknnSbn4OstJegluZ78thNfXv1rAQACLcB/s320/_DSC3052.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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A simple solution to a tricky problem that can be made with an item found in any office or home.Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-10876639611583840432016-09-04T18:09:00.001+01:002016-09-10T12:59:45.002+01:00Installing PFSense on Soekris NET6501 with mSATA driveA Soekris NET6501 is a small single board PC that can be used in a variety of roles. In this case it is being used for running PFSense an open source firewall program. There are several different NET6501 boards that vary on CPU speed memory and Ethernet ports. This board is a NET6501-50 in a 19" rack mount case but the instructions should work on other variants.<br />
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First step was to install the mSATA drive onto the 6501. The various ports on the board seem to be sharing buses so you may have to experiment if you are using USB and other ports but this location for the mSATA worked fine for me<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-peH1_D-kpWk/V8wvaK3xZKI/AAAAAAAAAik/1UNcps5ayF0FEjieElkHVB-ar0KovhI7QCLcB/s1600/20160904_150110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-peH1_D-kpWk/V8wvaK3xZKI/AAAAAAAAAik/1UNcps5ayF0FEjieElkHVB-ar0KovhI7QCLcB/s320/20160904_150110.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next we need to <a href="https://www.pfsense.org/download/" target="_blank">download PFSense </a>to load on to the 6501, this is where it starts getting tricky.</div>
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PFSense is built on Free BSD. Since <a href="https://doc.pfsense.org/index.php/Versions_of_pfSense_and_FreeBSD" target="_blank">PFSense version 2.2</a> it has been built using version 10.x of Free BSD. There seems to be an issue with Free BSD version 10.x that stops the 6501 board from booting from the mSATA drive after PF Sense has been installed. The latest version of PFSense is 2.3.2 and still has the problem of booting from mSATA.</div>
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I got around this issue by loading an older version of PFSense and then upgrading from within that version of PFSense.</div>
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The version of PFSense I used was 2.1.3 this does not appear as an option to download from the main PFSense site so you may have to dig around on the internet to find it. I found it at this <a href="http://mirror.transip.net/pfsense/downloads/" target="_blank">mirror site</a>.</div>
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The version that I used was </div>
<ul>
<li><a href="http://mirror.transip.net/pfsense/downloads/pfSense-memstick-serial-2.1.3-RELEASE-i386.img.gz">pfSense-memstick-serial-2.1.3-RELEASE-i386.img.gz</a></li>
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This is used it install via a USB memory stick and has a serial console<br />
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Download the file and write it to a memory stick and make sure that the memory stick is bootable, I used a Windows program called <a href="https://rufus.akeo.ie/" target="_blank">Rufus</a> or use your other favourite memory stick writing program.</div>
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Once you have PFSense 2.1.3 on a memory stick and you have your mSATA installed in your 6501 you are nearly ready to install</div>
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If you are connecting to the 6501 via the serial port you will need a program such as Putty. Putty initially needs to be set to 19200 8 data bits 1 stop bit and no parity to talk to the 6501 but you will also need 9600 and 115200. This is because PFSense 2.1.3 uses 9600 but when you update to the latest version that will use 115200.</div>
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When you boot the 6501 you should see a screen as below when it has booted<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-StgltwilAos/V8w5u7qss7I/AAAAAAAAAi4/75YtEOU1EvwUPY4s_jXjNOYuq8FD6L4GgCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_020.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-StgltwilAos/V8w5u7qss7I/AAAAAAAAAi4/75YtEOU1EvwUPY4s_jXjNOYuq8FD6L4GgCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_020.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Type Show<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2kB7y2Djado/V8w7tqRV4nI/AAAAAAAAAjA/_fYvp-c35EkZfoZjlXj_M0TTADRDYX1cgCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_023.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2kB7y2Djado/V8w7tqRV4nI/AAAAAAAAAjA/_fYvp-c35EkZfoZjlXj_M0TTADRDYX1cgCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_023.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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You can see the console speed is set to 19200 and the bootdrive is set to 80 81 82 the mSATA drive will be 80 and the USB memory stick will be 81. You can change these settings if you want to but you will have to take the console lock off first by typing<br />
ConLock=disabled<br />
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If you are happy with the settings insert the memory stick into the USB port next to the console port and make a short press on the reset button<br />
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The 6501 will reboot and seem to have rubbish on the screen<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1kuQQ5bZuNw/V8w_Cq_6d2I/AAAAAAAAAjU/bDKJrEXSsSQM4jwB20_txR72g_72gV8YACK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_026.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1kuQQ5bZuNw/V8w_Cq_6d2I/AAAAAAAAAjU/bDKJrEXSsSQM4jwB20_txR72g_72gV8YACK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_026.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Restart Putty at 9600 and connect to the 6501 you should then see that PFSense is loading from the memory stick<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wha8TO1Pxsg/V8w_k9avB2I/AAAAAAAAAjg/duJLsi11j-IsZc1cOjoAmBbh0lHdpDMSQCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_028.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wha8TO1Pxsg/V8w_k9avB2I/AAAAAAAAAjg/duJLsi11j-IsZc1cOjoAmBbh0lHdpDMSQCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_028.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Pressing I will invoke the installer.<br />
Install PFSense by following the on screen menus<br />
You should have the 6501 connected to your network via an Ethernet cable<br />
The Quick and Easy option worked for me<br />
When the progress bar reaches 100% you should see this screen<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dli2BCP-z0o/V8xA5xCgzaI/AAAAAAAAAjo/1Q7tA7ebRn0KAWPNfDYn3ZnQ482RTPJZwCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_031.png" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D1rOBx7SAP4/V8xG122Pg4I/AAAAAAAAAkE/X9LED5b5TQEnFF4l7RcHjcwq0z75GYQsQCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_034.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D1rOBx7SAP4/V8xG122Pg4I/AAAAAAAAAkE/X9LED5b5TQEnFF4l7RcHjcwq0z75GYQsQCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_034.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Select "Embedded Kernel" this will allow the serial port to still work after reboot the standard kernel will not. Some more data will be written to the mSATA before you see this screen<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--wQ5OWRHZLQ/V8xBTIwWmzI/AAAAAAAAAjw/qTgNQwaV754aNb8I2ot692UzwUcwR5N4QCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_032.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--wQ5OWRHZLQ/V8xBTIwWmzI/AAAAAAAAAjw/qTgNQwaV754aNb8I2ot692UzwUcwR5N4QCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_032.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Select "Reboot" Hopefully the 6501 will reboot into the installed PFSense on the mSATA and not the memstick installer program. If it does boot the installer remove the memory stick and reboot the 6501. If it still does not boot check the bootdrive setting of the 6501 it should be 80 first.<br />
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Hopefully PFSense will run correctly and you should see this screen, Select "n" for setting up the VLANs<br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8Tx3OFhs7o/V8xIpMl6RUI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/2Mvw3I9_8H4GnjaNZfbd_NxsFVtLMNfvACK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_036.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8Tx3OFhs7o/V8xIpMl6RUI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/2Mvw3I9_8H4GnjaNZfbd_NxsFVtLMNfvACK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_036.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Select "a" for auto detection of the WAN interface<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ynSeRBmWK3A/V8xJHZLF0AI/AAAAAAAAAkY/1w5EbS7zMw4SGmXEYrDBBsFZ5Wz7rokugCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_037.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ynSeRBmWK3A/V8xJHZLF0AI/AAAAAAAAAkY/1w5EbS7zMw4SGmXEYrDBBsFZ5Wz7rokugCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_037.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Connect the network to the 6501 ETH 0 port, if already connected remove and reinsert the cable. Then press "ENTER"<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QwNXIY24ebk/V8xJjLuuN1I/AAAAAAAAAkg/OZTkJR4dGC0nZX8K8kZhsR1JVLDIm1STQCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_038.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QwNXIY24ebk/V8xJjLuuN1I/AAAAAAAAAkg/OZTkJR4dGC0nZX8K8kZhsR1JVLDIm1STQCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_038.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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The connection should have been detected, if not repeat auto detection and and remove and reinsert the cable until it is.<br />
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You will then be asked about setting up the LAN interface, we can ignore that at this point, Just hit enter<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qLkjnengHtA/V8xKywUDmII/AAAAAAAAAko/j6CGvM1KLkEfoX62luCBbGbnP57Ufk9wwCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_039.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qLkjnengHtA/V8xKywUDmII/AAAAAAAAAko/j6CGvM1KLkEfoX62luCBbGbnP57Ufk9wwCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_039.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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select "y" to assign the WAN interface<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eRAtErc0PCY/V8xLHM6sQ5I/AAAAAAAAAk0/TNvr0RmJGEUWGGRJWHvrW3r4G0mQUsL3ACK4B/s1600/Selection_041.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="90" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eRAtErc0PCY/V8xLHM6sQ5I/AAAAAAAAAk0/TNvr0RmJGEUWGGRJWHvrW3r4G0mQUsL3ACK4B/s320/Selection_041.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Eventually you should see this screen<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oaZI1yLC9LM/V8xOcQFD5fI/AAAAAAAAAlA/eBpqHppaMRggTIV5CSBraB4PA-GZ3bUugCK4B/s1600/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_043.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="221" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oaZI1yLC9LM/V8xOcQFD5fI/AAAAAAAAAlA/eBpqHppaMRggTIV5CSBraB4PA-GZ3bUugCK4B/s320/-dev-ttyUSB0%2B-%2BPuTTY_043.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Option 13 should allow you to update PFSense from the console but I had no luck doing it that way. However I did do it this way.<br />
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Using you favourite browser connect to the ip address shown for the WAN, in this case 192.168.101.112<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_Bi3TPmS-4/V8xPTMoQ3uI/AAAAAAAAAlI/Paq7Thjb5loSDzJBEvDffw1pkqNddh9fwCK4B/s1600/Selection_044.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="40" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m_Bi3TPmS-4/V8xPTMoQ3uI/AAAAAAAAAlI/Paq7Thjb5loSDzJBEvDffw1pkqNddh9fwCK4B/s320/Selection_044.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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You will probably get a message saying your connection is not private, click advanced and then proceed<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yfadVZgWI2s/V8xQJWDXCTI/AAAAAAAAAlU/U2QOJtRBAXENdlBjbBV1qZWP2zlN5g7ugCK4B/s1600/Selection_046.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yfadVZgWI2s/V8xQJWDXCTI/AAAAAAAAAlU/U2QOJtRBAXENdlBjbBV1qZWP2zlN5g7ugCK4B/s320/Selection_046.png" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
Login to PFSense. The user name is admin and the password is pfsense<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9zKB89SqZf0/V8xQfG-iN5I/AAAAAAAAAlc/4xza3GrNbVsTai-N_TGaSJq2T5GEKj1YACK4B/s1600/Selection_047.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="312" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9zKB89SqZf0/V8xQfG-iN5I/AAAAAAAAAlc/4xza3GrNbVsTai-N_TGaSJq2T5GEKj1YACK4B/s320/Selection_047.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Click the logo at the top of the screen to stop the wizard<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-myc1rJt6vDs/V8xQu3DQyAI/AAAAAAAAAlk/J-IK-7nDG5A1Amv7v7qsf3XnN7e-l9M2gCK4B/s1600/Selection_048.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="107" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-myc1rJt6vDs/V8xQu3DQyAI/AAAAAAAAAlk/J-IK-7nDG5A1Amv7v7qsf3XnN7e-l9M2gCK4B/s320/Selection_048.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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On the Dashboard click on "Click Here" next to Update Available<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sSE0FsY6Vto/V8xRlrIvxMI/AAAAAAAAAl0/Kw2gDUmTac0NoIwRf_biQrD5YI4szookACK4B/s1600/Selection_050.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sSE0FsY6Vto/V8xRlrIvxMI/AAAAAAAAAl0/Kw2gDUmTac0NoIwRf_biQrD5YI4szookACK4B/s320/Selection_050.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Click the "Invoke Auto Upgrade" button<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EHkd3nn3c-c/V8xR_Fndl8I/AAAAAAAAAl8/AL0fCV4fKoIPUzN2ciFlgNIkdKiowFGoACK4B/s1600/Selection_051.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EHkd3nn3c-c/V8xR_Fndl8I/AAAAAAAAAl8/AL0fCV4fKoIPUzN2ciFlgNIkdKiowFGoACK4B/s320/Selection_051.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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The new version will down load, install and reboot the 6501<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tCRrpSeD5jw/V8xSXwo5vGI/AAAAAAAAAmE/EuaLKTMCuXon_9sFmfloFMu08NWzL-kvgCK4B/s1600/Selection_052.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="155" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tCRrpSeD5jw/V8xSXwo5vGI/AAAAAAAAAmE/EuaLKTMCuXon_9sFmfloFMu08NWzL-kvgCK4B/s320/Selection_052.png" width="320" /></a><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v2wFmgdnoaQ/V8xSefpRGNI/AAAAAAAAAmM/9TvP_-_ziKwyhIHo_F4DopfG5L5M2k1YACK4B/s1600/Selection_053.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="136" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v2wFmgdnoaQ/V8xSefpRGNI/AAAAAAAAAmM/9TvP_-_ziKwyhIHo_F4DopfG5L5M2k1YACK4B/s320/Selection_053.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hm2cCPgDXZI/V8xSpSfgLTI/AAAAAAAAAmU/ozJe7yDbtDAvXQB9_KxmL6JNBGspDPBDwCK4B/s1600/Selection_054.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Hm2cCPgDXZI/V8xSpSfgLTI/AAAAAAAAAmU/ozJe7yDbtDAvXQB9_KxmL6JNBGspDPBDwCK4B/s320/Selection_054.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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PFSense will eventually reboot, it may take 5 mins or more. If you now want to contect to PFSEnse with the serial console then you will have to use Putty set at 115200.<br />
As you can see PFSense is now at version 2.3.2<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LmqLBzdWmSw/V8xUW-H0y8I/AAAAAAAAAmg/uwX5ufc3HvcUSRihCCgfgoMBUcAl8LmhACK4B/s1600/Selection_055.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="70" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LmqLBzdWmSw/V8xUW-H0y8I/AAAAAAAAAmg/uwX5ufc3HvcUSRihCCgfgoMBUcAl8LmhACK4B/s320/Selection_055.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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Logging back in with you browser also shows PFSense at the latest build<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--PklqVxQACI/V8xUxO48toI/AAAAAAAAAmo/RGnGruUoxGMbyWn1naQPuXtBGIvzk29cACK4B/s1600/Selection_056.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--PklqVxQACI/V8xUxO48toI/AAAAAAAAAmo/RGnGruUoxGMbyWn1naQPuXtBGIvzk29cACK4B/s320/Selection_056.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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You now need to set up PFSense to your requirements.</div>
Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-62082384409493598132014-11-09T22:21:00.001+00:002014-11-09T23:10:16.373+00:00"Backups, why do I need to do backups?"<h2>
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One thing that I find in common when I speak to people about problems that they are having with either their desktop or laptop, is that most people dismiss backups as an irritant that they can do without. They have never lost any data in the past so what will change in the future?</div>
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Having had some success in persuading people that they do need to do backups in one form or another (usually a failed or very poorly hard drive focuses the mind) I still find that it is an uphill struggle. University students are usually the best recipient to my mantra of "there are only three things to remember 1. Do your backups 2. Do your backups and 3. Do your backups. I usually also tell them the story of the third year medical student with a very poorly hard drive in their laptop and no backups, nothing - zero - zilch - nada. If it wouldn't come off that failing hard drive it was gone forever. Focus the mind, do you really want to lose all that work?</div>
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So why all the ramblings about backups?</div>
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Well I received a call from home this week asking why there was a funny smell in the garage? No idea was my reply. Then our son rings home and asks if the internet was off as he could not pick up his email. Aha light bulb moment. Son gets wife to check email server for power lights, there were none. "Pull the power lead out the back Mum, NOW!"</div>
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So what did I find when I got home? The email server is running on a HP ML110 G5 server with two 250GB SATA hard drives in Raid 10. One of the hard drives failed around 12 months away and was replaced and the raid rebuilt from the remaining good hard drive. When the side of the server was removed it was quite clear what had happened.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2_MiRVZLFH0/VF_Y2VkGlRI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/-GfCeR856e4/s1600/20141107_194642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2_MiRVZLFH0/VF_Y2VkGlRI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/-GfCeR856e4/s1600/20141107_194642.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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The lower of the two hard drives had suffered a melt down of the power connector.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6UeFRW7xiQ/VF_hBFfe7OI/AAAAAAAAAag/58QqutIRr-s/s1600/20141107_195350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y6UeFRW7xiQ/VF_hBFfe7OI/AAAAAAAAAag/58QqutIRr-s/s1600/20141107_195350.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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When moving the power connector the power leads fell out of what was left of the melted connector. There was no insulation left on the cables and the copper conductors had fused together.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-esmAA-dRYfg/VF_hBUvEHoI/AAAAAAAAAak/pWRdQjwp0Oo/s1600/20141107_195421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-esmAA-dRYfg/VF_hBUvEHoI/AAAAAAAAAak/pWRdQjwp0Oo/s1600/20141107_195421.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is what was left of the power connector, just a big blob of plastic. You will see that I had plastic gloves on, mainly because of the soot but also because I was not sure if the melted plastic would be dangerous, some plastics can be toxic when burnt.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YuCXoo5Hpz8/VF_hBPDf4DI/AAAAAAAAAao/G20ri2MLUS4/s1600/20141107_195205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YuCXoo5Hpz8/VF_hBPDf4DI/AAAAAAAAAao/G20ri2MLUS4/s1600/20141107_195205.jpg" height="180" width="320" /></a></div>
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This was the upper hard drive. The power connector and the sata cable had melted but luckily the hard drive only suffered from superficial smoke damage. I did wonder if the hard drive had been heated to such a point that the solder would have melted.</div>
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I think that there were actual flames inside the server due to the amount of smoke and soot evidence. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pFhdj2QlYTk/VF_jdMD0UdI/AAAAAAAAAa8/Sq8SP1aWbWg/s1600/memory.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pFhdj2QlYTk/VF_jdMD0UdI/AAAAAAAAAa8/Sq8SP1aWbWg/s1600/memory.JPG" height="204" width="320" /></a></div>
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A close up of the memory modules shows the amount of soot that had been deposited. </div>
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The soot being mainly carbon and therefore conductive, I thought it was wise to clean off as much as possible. With the careful use of some isopropyl wipes I was able to clean up the upper hard drive and the memory modules. Luckily the hard drives were as far apart as possible, if they had been on top of each other I don't think the upper one would have survived, I also changed the PSU out for another one that I had and also vacuumed out all the burnt bits of plastic, finally I then blew out any remaining remnants with compressed air. </div>
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The power was reapplied and low and behold it all came back to life. No lost data due to the second dive of the raid array still working, if that had failed we did have an external backup as well but that would have resulted in some data loss due to the gap in time since the last backup.</div>
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So the morel is make sure you do your backups and make sure they are external to the device.</div>
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Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-42514784442543127532013-12-30T00:19:00.000+00:002014-01-02T00:05:14.472+00:00Ubuntu resolution problem<h2>
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<h3>
(or never overlook the obvious)</h3>
<h4>
The problem</h4>
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Over the years I have mainly used Windows based PCs but have also dabbled with Linux based systems. I have tried a few different Linux distributions but have settled on Ubuntu as my distribution of choice. </div>
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There was one problem that I was never able to resolve, that was really bugging me. When I connected my Linux box to a monitor via the VGA connector I could never set a usable resolution. My pair of Dell 22" run at a native 1920 x 1080 but I was lucky if I could get it working at 1024 x 768 which is also a 4:3 aspect ratio rather than the native resolutions 16:9 making squares look like rectangles and circles look squashed.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O4At1lixNgU/UsCgljYTJHI/AAAAAAAAAUM/OeJEH6kX7TQ/s1600/Low+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O4At1lixNgU/UsCgljYTJHI/AAAAAAAAAUM/OeJEH6kX7TQ/s320/Low+res.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If I connected the PC via a digital connection such as a DVI or HDMI cable the resolution was always correctly selected. The left hand green monitor is connected with a DVI cable and the right hand yellow monitor is connected by a VGA cable. This was going to be a problem as I was planning on setting up a Linux Ubuntu PC as a replacement for an ageing Windows XP PC for a friend that is the wrong side of 70, who only had a VGA monitor.</div>
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<h4>
The non solution</h4>
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The graphics card in the PC that I had Ubuntu loaded on to it had Nvidia chipset loaded on to it. Researching the problem on the internet it seemed that the Nvidia drivers could be an issue, so I tried many different variations of driver from the Nvidia stable as well as the Ubuntu Nouveau drivers. There were also articles stating that you could insert custom resolutions into an xorg file. On several occasions I broke my Linux installation to such an extent I had to reinstall it. </div>
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Now I am not too bad when it comes to PC use (usually Windows), but the problem I have found with Linux in general, is that if you want to do anything more than basic things you need to have a reasonable knowledge of the Linux operating system, but you can't get that reasonable knowledge because you can't do anything but the basics. A bit of a Catch 22 situation. So playing around with xorg and drivers can seem a bit daunting and very frustrating.</div>
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In Windows you have the option of choosing the resolution and refresh rate that you want to run the monitor at. It is up to you to apply the correct settings. With Ubuntu, and probably other Linux distributions, the operating system tries to determine the correct resolution so as not to apply a resolution that could potentially damage the monitor.</div>
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After many attempts at getting a usable resolution on VGA I was frustrated and resigned my self to just being able to connect via DVI.</div>
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<h4>
The real solution</h4>
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My pivotal moment was when I realised that my Sons dual monitor Ubuntu setup was using DVI and VGA connections just like mine, but he was using the correct resolutions on both monitors. In my defence he is away at university most of the year and I thought both monitors were connected via DVI.</div>
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With this small piece of information I started investigating my resolution problem with renewed vigour knowing that it was possible to run a VGA monitor in Ubuntu at the correct resolution.</div>
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So where does the problem lie? Well what you have to understand first is my PC setup. I don't just have an Ubuntu PC, I have two PCs at my desk. My main PC (at the moment) is a Windows 8 machine that sits in the cupboard to my left, and an Ubuntu box at my feet. I have twin 22" Dell monitors that each have a DVI and VGA input. The Windows box runs on a single graphics card that has a a VGA and DVI output. Therefore one monitor is connected to the Windows box via VGA and the other via DVI. This means that there is a spare input into each monitor, these are therefore available for the Ubuntu box at my feet. When I want to use the Ubuntu box I just switch the input on the monitor. Before fixing the problem I connected the Ubuntu box to a monitor using just the DVI cable and therefore using just one monitor rather than the twin monitor set-up that the Windows PC has.</div>
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The monitor on the right is the one that is connected to the Ubuntu box via VGA and was the one that I could never set to the correct resolution. To try and keep the cables relatively tidy they are cable tied and routed in a way that means that I don't catch them with my feet. This meant that the VGA cable that was supplied with the monitor would not reach the Ubuntu box at my feet.</div>
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A cable that is not long enough is not a problem as there are many solutions, I could have bought a longer cable or I could use an extension cable. Well I had a good quality VGA extension cable made by Belkin which is what I had used for quite a while and had served me well when I was working on Windows PCs.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zkEmiY2uuYc/UsCx5UVLc-I/AAAAAAAAAUc/QHHk5I9Ie-M/s1600/Belkin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zkEmiY2uuYc/UsCx5UVLc-I/AAAAAAAAAUc/QHHk5I9Ie-M/s320/Belkin.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;">It had a nice thick cable, was a reasonable length, it even had gold plated connectors what more could I want?</span></h4>
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Well it seems that I need just a little bit more. A good resource on VGA pin outs is the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VGA_connector" target="_blank">Wikipedia VGA page </a> It would seem that my high quality Belkin VGA extension cable does not have all of the pins connected. Pin 9 is missing completely from one end but this seems to be a +5v power feed and does not have any affect in my set up. More importantly pins 12 and 15 are not connected through. Pins 12 and 15 appear to be involved with an I2C bus between the monitor and graphics card that is used to identify the monitor to the graphics card so that the monitor know what the monitors supported resolutions are. Eureka! </div>
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To prove the theory I plugged the monitor VGA port directly in to the graphics card without the extension lead. Success I could now choose the correct resolution for the monitor</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BkZBEvs4KOE/UsC39XThLAI/AAAAAAAAAUs/H6Tkq8016yQ/s1600/High+res.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="209" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BkZBEvs4KOE/UsC39XThLAI/AAAAAAAAAUs/H6Tkq8016yQ/s320/High+res.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So now I had to locate a VGA extension cable that had all of the pins connected. This was not as difficult as I thought it would be, however you have to be careful, you can't go by price, brand, size of cable or whether any part of it is made of gold. It needs to explicitly state that all pins are connected in the description. In the end I opted for a very expensive (not) lead from an Amazon seller for about £3.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LPOLUXqao4w/UsC5fW1fQzI/AAAAAAAAAU4/zBlpkZ5DdwQ/s1600/No+Name.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LPOLUXqao4w/UsC5fW1fQzI/AAAAAAAAAU4/zBlpkZ5DdwQ/s320/No+Name.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The cable is thinner than the Belkin, shorter than the Belkin, has less gold than the Belkin but it enables me to run my VGA monitor at its correct resolution. Result!</div>
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So the lesson learnt here is to never overlook the obvious. This cable worked perfectly under Windows where I was able to select the correct resolution, but not under Ubuntu which was trying to query the monitor over the non-existent I2C bus. </div>
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So I have a twin monitor Ubuntu set-up but more importantly my 70+ year old family friend now has a fresh PC running Ubuntu, instead of her old XP set-up.</div>
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Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-84383954155536929222013-08-04T19:59:00.000+01:002013-08-04T19:59:24.582+01:00Help! I've got a hard drive.So you have an old hard drive. There are several reasons why you may have a old hard drive<br />
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<ul>
<li>You may have bought a new PC and you are wondering how to safely dispose of the old PC</li>
<li>Your old hard drive may be faulty and you have changed it for a new one</li>
<li>You may have upgraded the old hard drive for a newer bigger one</li>
</ul>
What ever the reason what you don't want to do is to just throw out your old hard drive with all your precious data on it.<br />
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If you have bought a new PC then you may want to either use the old PC as a secondary PC at home, maybe one for the kids or donate it to a charity for reuse or donate it to a relative. Information on either securely wiping the drive or just wiping your data can be found <a href="http://www.techsupportalert.com/best-free-hard-drive-eraser.htm" target="_blank">HERE</a>, Re using the old equipment as much as you can is the best thing to do, it can save precious resources and stop waste going to landfill or being exported to third world countries.<br />
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However sometimes the best thing to do is to get rid of the old equipment, it's either faulty or so old that it is no use to anybody.<br />
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I have had people ask my what to do with their old PC tower before taking it to the recycling point. They think that if they smash it with a hammer they will render it useless. They might but they could also leave the hard drive untouched meaning that the data could potentially be recovered from the hard drive easily.<br />
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My preferred method is to take the hard drive to pieces. Hard drives contain items that can be useful for the tinkerer. The hard drive disk itself make excellent mirrors that are virtually unbreakable, ideal when working on cars etc. There are a pair of super strong magnets in the hard drive that can be used for magnetic type things, watch out though they can pinch! If you are feeling really geeky you can take out the platter drive motor and have a play with it <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/BLDC-Motor-Control-with-Arduino-salvaged-HD-motor/" target="_blank">Like this.</a><br />
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The tools that you will need to take your hard drive apart are few, screwdrivers, Torq drivers and a pair of pliers or cutters to persuade some of the Torq screws that can be a little tight.<br />
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The parts from the stripped down hard drive that you don't think will be useful can be recycled. The main body is usually aluminium and the top is steel, you can use the magnet to test. My local recycling center has separate bins for steel, aluminium and electronics so I feel I am doing my bit to help the recycling effort.<br />
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You also get a better insight into how your hard drive worked, I can pretty much guarantee that it won't work again after this and that sort of makes your data pretty much irretrievable. If you are still worried you can wipe the drive before taking it to bits.<br />
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The time lapse video below shows me taking apart an 80GB 3.5" IDE Seagate drive. 3.5" drives have the biggest magnets. Most 3.5" drive are similar in there construction so come apart in a similar way.<br />
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<br />Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-25318038775527158952013-03-11T00:58:00.000+00:002014-01-12T18:43:11.744+00:00HP 2600n Colour Laser Printer<br />
<h2>
Magenta fade and poor printing</h2>
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I have a HP 2600n colour laser printer, which I have had for
around 5 years and it has proven to be a very reliable printer. However
recently we noticed that the colour printing quality was not as good as it used
to be. To start investigating I printed a demo page (press left and right arrow
together).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z9uANln3D90/UT0SzKv9NLI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/PelYk5TuK_Q/s1600/2600_print_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z9uANln3D90/UT0SzKv9NLI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/PelYk5TuK_Q/s320/2600_print_1.JPG" height="320" width="228" /></a></div>
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The demo page showed that there were slight problems with
the alignment of the four different coloured toners. It also shows, but is not
as easy to spot, a problem with the magenta toner. You think that the magenta
is OK as the soldier’s tunic is red so you assume that the magenta is working
fine.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sWpslKXY8I0/UT0kMOSGHxI/AAAAAAAAAOY/cjAfdOrUrM0/s1600/2600_print_2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sWpslKXY8I0/UT0kMOSGHxI/AAAAAAAAAOY/cjAfdOrUrM0/s320/2600_print_2.JPG" height="317" width="320" /></a></div>
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To further prove that there was a problem I went to this
page <a href="http://www.refreshcartridges.co.uk/igloo/colour-laser-printer-test-page/" target="_blank">from Refresh Cartridges</a> and printed out the test page for colour
laser printers. What that showed was that the magenta was fading on the left of
the page.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JkL2AyZeW2I/UT0lADsw1aI/AAAAAAAAAOk/2MvwaImrFME/s1600/2600_print_4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JkL2AyZeW2I/UT0lADsw1aI/AAAAAAAAAOk/2MvwaImrFME/s320/2600_print_4.JPG" height="122" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8k_YsmtKqo/UT0k_9KX0QI/AAAAAAAAAOg/9QV07amT4Pg/s1600/2600_print_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h8k_YsmtKqo/UT0k_9KX0QI/AAAAAAAAAOg/9QV07amT4Pg/s320/2600_print_3.JPG" height="320" width="258" /></a></div>
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Doing a quick search I found that this is a very common
fault with this printer and the other printers that are based on the same
workings such as the HP 2605 and HP 1600 and the Canon LBP5000. The problem is
due to dust on one of the mirrors that the laser beam is reflected off on its
way to the toner cartridge.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The optical box that contains the lasers, lenses and mirrors
is not sealed against ingress of dust, and as the printer has fans to cool the
internal workings of the printer, the result is that the fans suck dust in from
outside the printer and deposit it inside the printer. If I was a cynical
person I might think that the printer was specifically designed that way to try
and get people to buy a new printer, after buying a new magenta cartridge that didn't fix the fading problem!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MdwpxRWb4uE/UT0l1RWR85I/AAAAAAAAAOw/V_flyUv05to/s1600/2600+opt+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MdwpxRWb4uE/UT0l1RWR85I/AAAAAAAAAOw/V_flyUv05to/s320/2600+opt+1.jpg" height="193" width="320" /></a></div>
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The optical box looks complicated, and it is, but it’s not
as complicated as it seems on first glance. There is basically one set of
mirrors and lenses that have been copied another three times to give a set of
lasers, lenses and mirrors for each of the four different colours.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KCi3fznE_Mw/UT0mTNrnQfI/AAAAAAAAAPA/ic6uQKYJb7U/s1600/2600+opt+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KCi3fznE_Mw/UT0mTNrnQfI/AAAAAAAAAPA/ic6uQKYJb7U/s320/2600+opt+2.jpg" height="320" width="258" /></a></div>
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Each one of the four different coloured sections is made up
of the following basic components:</div>
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<ol>
<li>Laser – covered by shutter in picture</li>
<li>Lens</li>
<li>Rotating mirror – only one per pair of colours</li>
<li>Lens</li>
<li>Mirror – this is where most of the dust will be</li>
<li>Compensating lens</li>
<li>Calibration detector – only one per pair of detectors</li>
</ol>
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The laser beam is emitted from the laser through the lens which focuses the beam on to the rotating mirror which then reflects the
beam through the next lens and onto the mirror. The beam is the reflected
through the compensating lens and onward to the toner cartridge. If you
look carefully at the lens before the rotating mirror, you will see that there
are actually three lenses moulded in to the plastic. Two of them are the lens
that the two laser beams pass through before hitting the rotating mirror. The
third one focuses the beam on to the calibration detector which is located back
on the pcb.<o:p></o:p></div>
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All the lenses are made of plastic and care must be taken in
cleaning them as they are easily scratched. The mirrors are also delicate as
the reflective surface is on top of the glass and not behind the glass in a
normal mirror. The magenta and yellow mirrors are particularly susceptible because
the face upwards and any dust floating down will settle on them.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I came across an
excellent site that takes you through the fix step by step. I am not going to
repeat the steps but just going to point you towards the <a href="http://www.reeves-hall.net/tech-gadgets/fixing-washed-out-colour-on-hp-color-laserjet-2605" target="_blank">excellent site</a>.</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I recommend that you follow the instructions on the above
site and then read the extra problems that I overcame.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">After
carefully cleaning the optic box and making sure that the box was sitting
correctly inside the printer, I printed out the Self-Test / Configuration page
from the printer. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LC_Kzrs2u40/UT0o2iUL4JI/AAAAAAAAAPI/KUTHmUF-W54/s1600/2600_print_5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LC_Kzrs2u40/UT0o2iUL4JI/AAAAAAAAAPI/KUTHmUF-W54/s320/2600_print_5.JPG" height="320" width="231" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The
good news was the magenta was OK all across the page; the bad news was the four
colours were completely out of alignment.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vY4mlvMCrAw/UT0pNOGYq9I/AAAAAAAAAPQ/aEbsUxOIwlY/s1600/2600_print_6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vY4mlvMCrAw/UT0pNOGYq9I/AAAAAAAAAPQ/aEbsUxOIwlY/s320/2600_print_6.JPG" height="97" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AVyWJU-N-Yc/UT0pNH2UF9I/AAAAAAAAAPU/CcpBAnieXm0/s1600/2600_print_7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AVyWJU-N-Yc/UT0pNH2UF9I/AAAAAAAAAPU/CcpBAnieXm0/s1600/2600_print_7.JPG" /></a></div>
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I tried calibrating the printer, and although that changed
the alignment of the colours it still was not correct. After more searching on
line I tried a “Super NVRAM reset” by holding both arrow keys down whilst turning
on the printer. According to all the warnings I found on line this reset clears
all the non-volatile memory in the printer which could also wipe the record of
the number of pages that have been printed. In my case the page count was not
reset.<o:p></o:p></div>
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After doing the NVram reset the alignment was back as it
should be hooray!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-84gfNp6yp4M/UT0pp9mDOXI/AAAAAAAAAPg/s57VpxOuxUU/s1600/2600_print_10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-84gfNp6yp4M/UT0pp9mDOXI/AAAAAAAAAPg/s57VpxOuxUU/s320/2600_print_10.JPG" height="248" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cD8gBGg5Xqo/UT0pqHgJ7gI/AAAAAAAAAPk/cjfOmD6juG4/s1600/2600_print_9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cD8gBGg5Xqo/UT0pqHgJ7gI/AAAAAAAAAPk/cjfOmD6juG4/s320/2600_print_9.JPG" height="87" width="320" /></a></div>
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The print demo page also looks a lot better, there are reds
all across the picture, the colours are aligned and you can even read the name
on the side of the train!</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2WPqBeuIANo/UT0p3ZjD0ZI/AAAAAAAAAPw/1qB2QgHhzUA/s1600/2600_print_11.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2WPqBeuIANo/UT0p3ZjD0ZI/AAAAAAAAAPw/1qB2QgHhzUA/s320/2600_print_11.JPG" height="320" width="227" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LCnjZfMEjQ4/UT0p33Ka65I/AAAAAAAAAP0/6bxEuDYLFz4/s1600/2600_print_12.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LCnjZfMEjQ4/UT0p33Ka65I/AAAAAAAAAP0/6bxEuDYLFz4/s320/2600_print_12.JPG" height="307" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
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Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-53602451032218400852012-06-27T00:26:00.000+01:002013-10-30T11:29:06.308+00:00Asus X52F Laptop - Random changes in date<br />
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I was recently asked to look at an Asus X52F laptop that kept changing the date to a random date between sometime in 2010 and a couple of months in the future. The time didn't seem to change just the date. This was causing problems when on the internet with certificate errors as the system date did not match what was being expected. </div>
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This laptop uses the Asus K52 motherboard so the following could well be useful for other K52 equipped laptops.</div>
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First thing to check is whether the date that Windows is displaying is the same as the system date in the BIOS. Pressing F2 when starting takes you into the BIOS and the date shown there was the same as was shown in Windows. Reset the date to the correct date, press F10 to save and exit and boot into Windows and check the date. If all is OK shut down the laptop and go and make a nice cup of tea.</div>
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Now you are suitably refreshed, restart the laptop and press F2 to boot into the BIOS and check the date. If the date is incorrect you have the same problem as I had.</div>
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My first reaction was that the BIOS battery needed changing. However I was a bit concerned that it only seemed to be the date that was changing and not the time. Doing a bit of Googling it does seem to be a common problem. So the easy fix is to just put in a new BIOS battery and see what happens. Flip the laptop over, take off the access panel and look for five minutes trying to find the BIOS battery. No Battery to be seen. Hmmm.</div>
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Well there is a battery but it is not that easy to get to.<br />
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<b><u>Update</u></b><br />If you are feeling brave check out the link at the end of the instructions</div>
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So what will we need to get to the battery.</div>
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Suitable sized crosshead screwdriver.</div>
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Small flat screwdriver.</div>
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Antistatic mat and wristband are always a good idea.</div>
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A new BIOS battery - A CR2032 in my case.</div>
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A plastic spodger or finger nail for opening the case without damaging it.</div>
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Suitable container for keeping the removed screws in - preferably sub divided for the different screws.</div>
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Digital voltmeter is nice but not essential.</div>
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You may also might want to take note of your BIOS settings before you start as the removal of the battery will reset the BIOS.</div>
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First remove the battery and power supply. This is a really good idea!</div>
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Next we need to remove the keyboard. This is held in with 5 clips at the top of the keyboard. The locations are shown in the photo. Using a small flat screwdriver or plastic spodger release each clip in turn and ease the keyboard up.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EKGlw7zyaTA/T-orBnBoquI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/4qHnKoPu19o/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EKGlw7zyaTA/T-orBnBoquI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/4qHnKoPu19o/s320/1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Before removing the keyboard completely the ribbon cable needs to be released from the motherboard.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OliSgdi1Gd8/T-orPdSMPoI/AAAAAAAAAJo/0JXkXiibGh4/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OliSgdi1Gd8/T-orPdSMPoI/AAAAAAAAAJo/0JXkXiibGh4/s320/2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To release the ribbon cable the small black bar that anchors the cable needs to be moved towards the cable.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cv4TZKXdTis/T-orRsOWmKI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/rVDpkFAEwJ0/s1600/3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cv4TZKXdTis/T-orRsOWmKI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/rVDpkFAEwJ0/s320/3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then remove the cable and put the keyboard somewhere safe.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ATq79yI4JPQ/T-orSykUhwI/AAAAAAAAAKA/zKx9JM_94Tw/s1600/4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="268" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ATq79yI4JPQ/T-orSykUhwI/AAAAAAAAAKA/zKx9JM_94Tw/s320/4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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We now have to remove 10 screws from under where the keyboard was. They are circled in the photo. These 10 screws are all the same size, make sure you store and note where they came from to make it easier to reassemble the laptop later. The red arrow in the photo is pointing to the location of the BIOS battery underneath the top aluminium panel.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bt8Sj9hZcHg/T-orUcfS1PI/AAAAAAAAAKI/gUKN9Ax69UI/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bt8Sj9hZcHg/T-orUcfS1PI/AAAAAAAAAKI/gUKN9Ax69UI/s320/5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you look through one of the holes in the aluminium you can see the battery holder.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2I2K7wzlddQ/T-orVvKL__I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/-hBmsRo3h3k/s1600/6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="169" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2I2K7wzlddQ/T-orVvKL__I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/-hBmsRo3h3k/s320/6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next close the lid of the laptop and turn the laptop upside down. I have already removed the access panel, it is held on with 5 screws and needs to eased up as it is also clipped in. With the panel removed you will see the underside of the motherboard and the hard drive at the bottom right. We need to remove the 4 screws that hold in the hard drive and the 2 screws that secure the DVD drive, They are circled in the photo. Remove the screws and then remove the hard drive and DVD drive and store safely.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NbSU-p5QQ1w/T-orXbovgVI/AAAAAAAAAKY/v7qIs-Kt23A/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NbSU-p5QQ1w/T-orXbovgVI/AAAAAAAAAKY/v7qIs-Kt23A/s320/7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the hard drive and DVD out of the way remove the 15 circled screws in the photo. The different colours of the circles denote different sized screws.</div>
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Next flip the laptop over and open the lid. You can now ease the top and bottom apart. This is where I used the spodger to ease the clips apart. DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE just ease them apart.</div>
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With the top and bottom loose carefully lift the top up slightly. You should see that the touchpad ribbon cable needs releasing (right circle) and that there seems to be a cable attached to the aluminium (left circle).</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M3yuqreY2Qg/T-orDFxw88I/AAAAAAAAAIY/tVgntCsuRiE/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M3yuqreY2Qg/T-orDFxw88I/AAAAAAAAAIY/tVgntCsuRiE/s320/10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Release the ribbon cable for the touchpad using a suitable tool. The White bar needs to be eased towards the cable.</div>
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Then if yours is the same the screen cable will be stuck to the underside of the aluminium. Carefully release the cable.</div>
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You should now be able to remove the top half of the lower casing. You should now be able to see the BIOS battery (circled in red). It is not actually on the motherboard but on a small daughter board attached to the motherboard.</div>
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Carefully remove the battery. You should be able to flick it up from the left hand side. These batteries are 3v. Therefore I was a little disappointed to see a reading of 3.17v when I tested the one that came out as I would have thought that that would have been enough to keep the BIOS.</div>
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However when I tested the new battery I saw a reading of 3.39v so I thought it might make a difference. </div>
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Fit the new battery and begin the reassembly. Make sure that the screen cable that was stuck to the aluminium is poked down out of the way.</div>
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Carefully line up and reattach the top half to the bottom half. Reattach the touchpad ribbon cable and ensure the cable is fully in before moving the locking bar.</div>
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Close the lid and turn over the laptop. Now replace the 15 screws that you removed earlier.</div>
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Then replace the DVD drive and the hard drive and secure with the screws. Then replace the access panel and refit the screws that secure it and then turn the laptop over again.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NbSU-p5QQ1w/T-orXbovgVI/AAAAAAAAAKY/v7qIs-Kt23A/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NbSU-p5QQ1w/T-orXbovgVI/AAAAAAAAAKY/v7qIs-Kt23A/s320/7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Refit the 10 screws from under the keyboard.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bt8Sj9hZcHg/T-orUcfS1PI/AAAAAAAAAKI/gUKN9Ax69UI/s1600/5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bt8Sj9hZcHg/T-orUcfS1PI/AAAAAAAAAKI/gUKN9Ax69UI/s320/5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now carefully reattach the ribbon cable for the keyboard. With the cable inserted push home the locking bar.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cc1WbZGuj4/T-orMhQowMI/AAAAAAAAAJY/hj6cvS3v-bc/s1600/18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="219" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5cc1WbZGuj4/T-orMhQowMI/AAAAAAAAAJY/hj6cvS3v-bc/s320/18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now carefully refit the keyboard. Bottom edge first and then along the top edge making sure that all 5 of the clips has secured the keyboard.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EKGlw7zyaTA/T-orBnBoquI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/4qHnKoPu19o/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EKGlw7zyaTA/T-orBnBoquI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/4qHnKoPu19o/s320/1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Replace the battery and the mains supply if required and turn on the laptop. Press F2 to go in to the BIOS. You will see that the date and time have reset. Change the date and time to the correct date and time. Press F10 to save and exit and then boot to Windows to check the date and time are correct there. Shut down the laptop and go and make a fresh cup of tea, leaving the laptop turned off for 20 mins.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UBcXuy8fTOQ/T-orQQMJdKI/AAAAAAAAAJw/pXnhl8baGzE/s1600/20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="177" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UBcXuy8fTOQ/T-orQQMJdKI/AAAAAAAAAJw/pXnhl8baGzE/s320/20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you are fully refreshed, start the laptop and press F2 for the BIOS. Hopefully the date and time will be correct. If they are give yourself a pat on the back. If they aren't correct your problem was not caused by a dodgy BIOS battery.<br />
<br />
<b>Feeling Brave</b><br />
If you think the "official" way of changing the CMOS battery is a bit long winded and you are feeling brave, check out the instructions posted by Ian (exepress) <a href="http://asus-cmos-battery.probably.me.uk/" target="_blank">HERE</a>. Don't blame us if it all goes horribly wrong though!</div>
Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-56706147854741718822012-06-07T23:22:00.000+01:002012-06-26T18:14:49.448+01:00Toshiba P200D Laptop - No Wireless, sometimes!!Toshiba Satellite P200D laptop that required a re install of Windows Vista. All done and tested, including SP2 update, and laptop given back to the owner. I received a phone call saying that they were unable to get the laptop on to the internet. Initial thoughts were that they were not inputting the correct wireless code to access their router as everything worked fine for me.<br />
<br />
Visited the owner and sure enough the laptop would not connect properly. However their other laptop was OK, their Ipad was OK and my netbook would connect OK which had never been on their network.<br />
<br />
The laptop was getting an IP address from the router which was the DHCP server. The router was saying that the laptop was connected as it was in the list of connected devices. However the laptop connection was saying that it was "Local" only and there was no little globe on the connection near the clock. You could ping the laptops IP address ok but if you pinged the default gateway (the router) laptop said there was no connection.<br />
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Stripped out the wireless connection, and tried connecting again, no joy. Checked the router, which was a BT Home Hub 3 nothing seemed to be amiss. Stopped the router working on 802.11 B G and N and let it work on just B and G, still the same. Gave up and took the laptop away for further examination.<br />
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The Toshiba connected first time and no problems getting on the internet on my network. Very strange.<br />
<br />
Trawled the net looking for similar issues. There seemed to be a lot pointing towards an issue with Vista and DHCP Broadcast flags. However checking the solution and the registry, it would appear that the registry entry had been changed probably in one of the service packs I am guessing.<br />
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It was a bit difficult trying to fault a laptop that works perfectly on your network but does not work on the laptops owners network. So I came up with a list of "logical" things to try the next time I visited<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Try it on an ethernet cable</li>
<li>Try a USB wireless dongle</li>
<li>Try resetting the router to factory defaults</li>
<li>Compare the ipconfig /all output with my netbook</li>
<li>Try a different access point plugged into the HH3 router</li>
<li>Try a different router</li>
<li>Disable IPv6 - I'm getting desperate now!</li>
<li>Compare Wireshark logs of the Toshiba and my netbook connecting to the router - Really really desperate!!</li>
</ul>
<div>
So back out to try and get the laptop working and work my way through the logical list. However I didn't need to. When I tried connecting to the router everything worked, a miracle? Well no. Before I left home I updated the Atheros wireless driver from the default one that was installed when Vista was re installed. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
So it would seem that the Vista default drivers for the Atheros wireless work on some routers and not on others. Looking at Windows Updates in the control panel, there was a failed optional update for the Atheros Wireless. The error code meant the update failed due to there being a more recent version already installed on the laptop, this was the one that I installed before I left home.</div>
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So the moral of the story is don't assume that the drivers are OK just because it works on your network!</div>Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-35985456432146316372012-03-07T00:36:00.001+00:002012-06-26T18:20:04.726+01:00"My laptop won't turn on. Can you fix it?"A friend with a HP Compaq CQ61 laptop had an issue with the laptop not turning on. They had given me a clue by saying that the charger did not seem to be working. However they had tried another charger from one of their friends that was supposedly the same model and it still didn't work.<br />
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So I plug the laptop charger in to the mains and then plug the charger into the laptop. Sure enough there was no life in the laptop. The battery had also run down so no blinking flashing leds, screens or anything.<br />
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Crack out the trusty meter and check to see if there was any volts coming out of the charger and going into the laptop. Nope there wasn't.<br />
<br />
Do we have mains going into the charger? Change the meter to AC and measure the voltage. None again. Perhaps the fuse has gone. Unplug from the mains to check and..... well see for yourself<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-icxjhQr86OA/T1aeL6vSzUI/AAAAAAAAAFA/tkPbUth_2s0/s1600/2012-03-06+23-15-26.219.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-icxjhQr86OA/T1aeL6vSzUI/AAAAAAAAAFA/tkPbUth_2s0/s320/2012-03-06+23-15-26.219.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Total lack of the live pin on the plug. Well this will be easy, just change the plug.<br />
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Plug changed, does it work? No. Damn!<br />
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Perhaps the lead is broken between the charger and laptop connector. Crack open the charger using this <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-your-broken-Laptop-power-cord/" target="_blank">Instructable</a> (if you try it don't go blaming me if you electrocute yourself or burn your house down etc). Case cracked open and low voltage lead checked, no broken wires. Damn and blast!<br />
<br />
Right lets check this other laptop charger. Hmm not an original HP. Well plug it in and the mains light on the laptop comes on for 2 secs and then goes off. Oh dear.<br />
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Doing a bit of Googling on the subject of these laptops throws up problems with overheating video chips, reflowing solder joints, bad southbridge chips, turn the laptop upside down whilst powering it up (yes really). This isn't looking good.<br />
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Lets clutch at a few straws. I wonder if the CMOS battery has gone bad? Take the CMOS battery out and check with meter, 3v. Hmmmm<br />
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Put it all back together. Plug in charger. Whats that flashing light? It's the battery charging.<br />
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After leaving the battery to charge for a while, so it was not critically low, the laptop turned on. Now we are getting somewhere.<br />
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All seems to be working except the power icon does not show that the laptop is plugged in to the mains and charging, it just shows the battery level. I think this could be due to the charger not being an original HP charger. There is an extra lead in the lead from the charger to the laptop which is an ID lead. It seems that if there is a problem with the ID lead the laptop does not recognize that there is a charger plugged in. This can cause the laptop to think it is running on batteries when it is on mains. This could cause the laptop to slow down trying to save power, depending on the power options that are set.<br />
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Oh well at least it turns on now. I will probably recommend a new charger, an original HP one!Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-14620670105740699602012-03-04T00:46:00.003+00:002013-11-30T16:21:33.166+00:00Zoostorm Freedom 10-270 - Hard Drive Removal and CMOS battery replacement<br />
The Zoostorm Freedom 10-270 is a small netbook PC. A friend asked me to have a look at the 10-270 as the machine would not boot. After doing all the usual checks I decided that I needed to scan the hard drive to see if it was infected. I tried the Microsoft Standalone System Sweeper, loaded on to a USB stick, but it could not find the Windows partition so failed to load. I then decided that the best way forward was to remove the hard drive from the netbook and attach it to my desktop machine where I would be able to scan it easier.<br />
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I turned the netbook over to try and find the cover that was hiding the hard drive. None of the covers underneath had a hard drive beneath them, oh dear! A quick Google led me to this <a href="http://fschooliascoff.com/2011/09/30/how-to-replace-the-hard-disk-in-a-zoostorm-freedom-10-270-netbook/" target="_blank">page</a>. So now I knew, to get to the hard drive you have to dismantle the netbook almost completely, oh deary dear!<br />
<br />
So are you feeling brave? Then let us begin.<br />
If your netbook is still in warranty then send it back and let them deal with it. If it's out of warranty and you have nothing to lose, have a go, it's the only way to learn you know!<br />
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<b>Things you will need</b><br />
Small Philips screwdriver, I bought this <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0000934GP/ref=oh_o01_s00_i00_details" target="_blank">set from Amazon</a> and the do seem quite good.<br />
Small slot screwdriver, mine was in the same set as the Philips.<br />
Good eyesight or a magnifying glass, or probably both!<br />
Anti-static mat and wrist strap is always a good idea when working on delicate electronics.<br />
Something to store an organize the screws that come out.<br />
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<b>Method</b><br />
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1. Unplug the charger, if I really needed to tell you that you had better stop now and not read any further.<br />
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2. Remove the Battery, two clips hold the battery in.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nyiVXw9351w/T9PKwjQLyGI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/lgVLUPlry0U/s1600/Zoostorm+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nyiVXw9351w/T9PKwjQLyGI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/lgVLUPlry0U/s320/Zoostorm+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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3.<span style="font-family: 'Coming Soon';"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><span style="color: #cdcdcd;"> </span>Remove the two screws that secure the two small panels above the battery.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Coming Soon';"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Coming Soon';"><span style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">4. </span></span><span style="font-family: 'Coming Soon'; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">Remove the two panels. Even with the screws removed you will have to ease the panels off as they are still held with small tabs of plastic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Coming Soon'; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Coming Soon'; font-size: 15px; line-height: 21px;">5. You should now have a netbook that looks like this.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Y5SjB00AKk/T9PVu_SYUBI/AAAAAAAAAFc/9LDs1iaMWUE/s1600/Zoostorm+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3Y5SjB00AKk/T9PVu_SYUBI/AAAAAAAAAFc/9LDs1iaMWUE/s320/Zoostorm+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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6. You now need to remove the 8 screws from the bottom of the netbook that are circled in red in the picture. The one on the left side is shorter than the other 7 so you will have to make sure you put the correct one back in this position when rebuilding the netbook.</div>
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7. Remove the aerial cable from the WiFi card. This should come of if you carefully ease it up with one of your flat screwdrivers. But be careful as it is a very small connector and looks like it can be easily damaged.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4uDPOIFsdk/T9PWrUpIfBI/AAAAAAAAAFk/NWiQKJdgUFQ/s1600/Zoostorm+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4uDPOIFsdk/T9PWrUpIfBI/AAAAAAAAAFk/NWiQKJdgUFQ/s320/Zoostorm+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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8. Turn over the netbook and open the screen. We now need to remove the keyboard. The keyboard is held in with 3 spring clips that are located above the F2 F8 and Print Screen keys. To release the spring clips insert a flat bladed screwdriver between the top of the F2 key and the plastic body of the netbook. If you are in the right place the clip should release and that part of the keyboard should pop up a little. Repeat for the other 2 clips.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NPmUYd_J2O8/T9PXQZ9QVPI/AAAAAAAAAFs/oyEnVS_FfCk/s1600/Zoostorm+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NPmUYd_J2O8/T9PXQZ9QVPI/AAAAAAAAAFs/oyEnVS_FfCk/s320/Zoostorm+4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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9. Once the 3 clips are released the top of the keyboard should be free. The bottom of the keyboard is held in with 3 tabs on the keyboard. However you need to release the ribbon cable from the motherboard before fully removing the keyboard. You should see that there is a grey plastic bar on the top of the ribbon connector. This grey plastic bar needs to be rotated upwards to release the ribbon cable.</div>
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10. Once the keyboard is removed you will then need to release the smaller ribbon cables that are for the touchpad and the LEDs. They are the same type of connectors as the keyboard and require the grey plastic bar rotating upwards like the keyboard connector.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aq-aSl-aNaY/T9PYklN1owI/AAAAAAAAAF0/M0dJMiw3mJs/s1600/Zoostorm+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="161" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aq-aSl-aNaY/T9PYklN1owI/AAAAAAAAAF0/M0dJMiw3mJs/s320/Zoostorm+5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can see the keyboard connector between the 2 smaller red circled smaller connectors.</div>
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11. You now need to remove the plastic covers that are covering the screen hinges. You need to use a flat screwdriver to ease the front of the cover up. When the front is eased up you can tease them off at the back as well. The covers look the same but they are handed, there is some plastic underneath that means that you have to make sure you replace them in there correct place. </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FaVNHCFmuQU/T9PZI2mJugI/AAAAAAAAAF8/tF1dPDCli9k/s1600/Zoostorm+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FaVNHCFmuQU/T9PZI2mJugI/AAAAAAAAAF8/tF1dPDCli9k/s320/Zoostorm+6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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12. You now need to remove the 2 connectors, 1 by each hinge, that come from the screen and connect to the motherboard. These connectors DO NOT have the grey plastic bar and are just push fit together. Tease them apart carefully trying to keep them square as they come apart so as not to damage them. Lift the sticky tape and lift the connector and wiring clear.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gAiUYjGu_LI/UN2ZFu16O8I/AAAAAAAAANg/gTM9t8-oF2s/s1600/Zoostorm+7a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gAiUYjGu_LI/UN2ZFu16O8I/AAAAAAAAANg/gTM9t8-oF2s/s320/Zoostorm+7a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yG9CQG2HBpw/UN2ZGh4DDcI/AAAAAAAAANk/JUw5Nu8onCI/s1600/Zoostorm+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yG9CQG2HBpw/UN2ZGh4DDcI/AAAAAAAAANk/JUw5Nu8onCI/s320/Zoostorm+8a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then you can remove the two screws indicated by the purple arrows, and carefully remove the screen. (Thanks Ruth) </div>
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13. Next remove the 6 screws from under the keyboard.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S1ctxMiE_Ic/UN2bW8g_zkI/AAAAAAAAAN8/TiRJyZ3uxkg/s1600/Zoostorm+9a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S1ctxMiE_Ic/UN2bW8g_zkI/AAAAAAAAAN8/TiRJyZ3uxkg/s320/Zoostorm+9a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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14. Turn the netbook over and look in the battery compartment. You will see 3 plastic clips that need to be released. I used a slightly larger flat screwdriver and using a twisting motion released the clips.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wP3Ep4pfr_0/T9PaU1hM5UI/AAAAAAAAAGk/4GT_qQ1fRIY/s1600/Zoostorm+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wP3Ep4pfr_0/T9PaU1hM5UI/AAAAAAAAAGk/4GT_qQ1fRIY/s320/Zoostorm+10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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15. With the 3 clips released the top of the netbook case should come off. You may have to run a finger nail, or similar between the two halves of the case. With the top of the case removed you should see the following.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_fyqj2I9NM/T9Pak9eRIpI/AAAAAAAAAGs/jZM9LvLTGIk/s1600/Zoostorm+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_fyqj2I9NM/T9Pak9eRIpI/AAAAAAAAAGs/jZM9LvLTGIk/s320/Zoostorm+11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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16. The hard drive is located in the bottom right hand corner. It is held in with 4 screws.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-svncxU-kOLI/T9Pa0L865kI/AAAAAAAAAG0/9TRDtP_Snwc/s1600/Zoostorm+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-svncxU-kOLI/T9Pa0L865kI/AAAAAAAAAG0/9TRDtP_Snwc/s320/Zoostorm+12.jpg" width="221" /></a></div>
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17. After removing the 4 screws, lift the black end of the hard drive up and withdraw the hard drive from the motherboard connectors.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYHSWwP2YHQ/T9PbBghyEQI/AAAAAAAAAHA/QnX85xSMZKc/s1600/Zoostorm+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZYHSWwP2YHQ/T9PbBghyEQI/AAAAAAAAAHA/QnX85xSMZKc/s320/Zoostorm+13.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So you now have the hard drive removed ready to replace or scan in another PC. When you have done what you need to do, the refitting and rebuilding of the netbook is the reversal of the removal. However there are few things to watch for:</div>
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The yellow package to the left of the hard drive in the last photo (I think it is the CMOS battery) has wires connecting it to the motherboard. Make sure you don't trap the wires when replacing the hard drive.</div>
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Make sure you put the correct screws in the right place. You did keep them all separate and note where they came from, didn't you?</div>
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Be careful when replacing the screen connectors they are rather small. The wires connecting them are also thin and easily damaged. Remember to put the sticky tape back on to hold the wires down so they don't get trapped.</div>
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The ribbon connectors for the keyboard, touchpad and leds can be a little tricky. Make sure they are correctly seated before pushing the grey bar down.</div>
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Don't forget to reattach the WiFi cable. You need to route from the top of the netbook after refitting the screen through the hole just to the left of the bigger screen connector. Take care when refitting the cable to the WiFi card that you have it aligned correctly.</div>
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So what happened to the hard drive in this machine?</div>
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Well after attaching it to my desktop and running the Hitachi diagnostics software on it, the result was the diagnostics were telling me that there was a hardware error due to "excessive shock". So it looks as though it's a new hard drive, but my friend does not have a Windows reinstall disk and did not do any backups of the operating system, because there is no optic drive, when they bought the netbook. So it might be getting a version of Linux installed on it.</div>
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<b><u>Update </u></b></h4>
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<b>CMOS Battery</b></h4>
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There have been a few people posting in the comments asking about the CMOS battery. I did not have to take the battery out when I was dealing with the hard drive, so I was a bit in the dark. Lucky for us, Andy has just replaced his and has posted some extra details:</div>
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<i>I just fitted a new one, zoostorm customer services charged £6.60 and it arrived overnight.<br />It has a keyed plug already fitted.<br />You
don't need to take the hard disk out but you need to get to that stage
then remove the plug from top side of the motherboard. If you follow
the wired you can see the plug/socket in the corner of the motherboard.<br />It's a fiddle but you can locate the replacement plug over the socket and lever it into position.<br />It is keyed so nothing to worry about.</i></div>
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<i>Andy</i></div>
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So it looks like the battery comes as a complete unit including the wire and plug to connect it to the motherboard, it is plugged on the motherboard not soldered and they can be obtained from Zoostorm Customer Service <a href="http://www.zoostorm.com/ContactUs.aspx">http://www.zoostorm.com/ContactUs.aspx</a></div>
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<b><u>Update Number 2</u></b></div>
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<b><u>CMOS Battery Again</u></b></div>
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Andy McDougall posted a comment saying that he had re sited the CMOS battery so that it would be easier to change it the next time it failed. That's a great idea but I also liked the fact that he used some rigid plastic from a supermarket meat tray to insulate the PCB from the re sited battery and holder. </div>
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He has sent me some photos and info which I have reproduced below. He has in effect moved the CMOS battery from one side of the notebook next to the hard drive to underneath the cover for the Wi Fi card as shown by the red circle in the picture below. He has removed the original battery holder and extended the wires to the new re sited battery holder. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0lfdPdzbIeE/UmmYAE7xunI/AAAAAAAAASQ/QXMgSt7_qAw/s1600/Zoostorm+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="221" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0lfdPdzbIeE/UmmYAE7xunI/AAAAAAAAASQ/QXMgSt7_qAw/s320/Zoostorm+14.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Hi Malcolm,<br />Attached are the photos I took during the final stages of the battery fix. the first just shows the extension wires linking to the chopped-off ones from the original battery - soldered but not yet sleeved. The second is the holder sitting on the plastic separator, unfortunately a bit skew-wiff and not terribly visible as it is transparent(ish). Conveniently it was possible to cut it with a bit of a flange below the edge nearest to the wifi sub-board, which helps to leave a little air gap above the packages underneath. That's just a bit of magic tape holding it steady.</i><br />
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<i>
I noticed the Small Battery Company offers a straight replacement complete with leads and connector (<a href="http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_cr1225-wr.htm">http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_cr1225-wr.htm</a>) but it's a rather expensive option at £12.99 compared with [holder + separate cell]. I suppose it might be useful if you don't fancy soldering.<br /><br />I can strongly recommend Gleave and Co (<a href="http://www.gleaveandco.com/">http://www.gleaveandco.com</a>) for anyone who passes through Farringdon in London, it is only 5 minutes' walk from the Underground and has a dizzying range of button cells at sensible prices, for example £1.20 for a quality Renata CR1225. Beware that they close at 3pm though.<br /><br />All the best, Andy</i><br />
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<b><u>Update Number 3</u></b></div>
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<b>More CMOS info</b></div>
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A good point from Brian Westlake in the comments, if you are going to replace the CMOS battery with an identical one and not move it like Andy did above, when you remove the old battery, holder and wiring make sure you note which way around the connector is as it is then easier to replace when you know which way around it fits.</div>
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Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com60tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-23388189550855353952011-07-07T10:57:00.000+01:002012-06-26T18:20:42.629+01:00Windows 7 Random Wake from HibernationWindows 7 randomly waking from Hibernation? It could be that there is a setting in your network card settings for the PC to "Wake on pattern match". It's a bit like WOL. For more details see this blog post.<br />
<a href="http://jack.ukleja.com/fix-for-windows-7-random-wake-from-sleep-problem/">http://jack.ukleja.com/fix-for-windows-7-random-wake-from-sleep-problem/</a>Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-73391372573172444402011-07-03T22:53:00.001+01:002011-07-07T10:58:01.397+01:00Bottom panel not as it should be in UbuntuBottom panel not showing your minimized windows?<br />
Right click the bottom panel<br />
Click "Add to Panel..."<br />
Scroll down and select "Window List"<br />
Click "Add"<br />
Your done<br />
While you're there you might as well add "Workspace Switcher" back as well which probably also dissappearedMalcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-54858015747485483552011-02-18T00:21:00.001+00:002011-02-18T00:21:38.428+00:00Ubuntu 10.10 Dual Booting Change Default OS<div style="direction: ltr;font-family: Tahoma;color: #000000;font-size: 10pt;">If you have loaded Ubuntu 10.10 on to a PC that already has a version of windows on it you will probably find that the Grub loader that starts when you boot the machine will set the default operating system to be Ubuntu. This is fine if you want Ubuntu to be your OS of choice and you only want Windows every now and then. You can of course change the OS that starts up by selecting your preferred option in the Grub loader. If however you want Windows to be the OS that starts up when you turn your machine on and walk away to make a cup of tea you will have to change the default OS from Ubuntu to Windows.<br> <br> You could do in Terminal somehow, probably, but for an Ubuntu newbie like me it is just to damned complicated. Instead use the GUI. Thats not as straight forward as you might think either though.<br> <br> To use the GUI you need to have Start Up Manager installed. If it is installed it will be in System|Administration. You will probably it isn't there. In that case you need to install it via Synaptic Package Manager which should be in the same System|Administration menu.<br> <br> Start the package manager, enter your root password, type "startupmanager" in to the "Quick Search" box. Click in the box to the left of the package and select "Mark For Installation". You may get a warning screen about other packages that are required, select "Mark". Then click "Apply" and follow any instructions.<br> <br> Once the Start up Manager is installed you can access it via System|Administration. <br> <br> When the Start UP Manager has loaded you will probably see that the default OS is set to Ubuntu. Using the drop down select your version of Windows to boot on start up. Then click "Close"<br> <br> You should now find that on start up, and without select any OS that the PC will boot to Windows. You should also find that the other people that use the PC and don't understand Ubuntu and don't want to use it have now stopped complaining. You of course will now have to choose Ubuntu at start up instead of the new default of Windows.<br> <br> </div> Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6521500859573680587.post-11015282778485100082011-02-11T18:00:00.000+00:002011-02-11T18:00:36.842+00:00Ubuntu Window ResizingThe area that you click on to with the mouse to resize windows in Ubuntu is very small and tricky to actually click on to. However if you press ALT and click the middle mouse button whilst hovering over any part of a window you can resize it a lot easier. A disadvantage is that this is now a two handed operation.Malcolm Huxtablehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04125762107823109783noreply@blogger.com0